Composting
Getting Started:
If you live in a rural area, you can have a compost pile, literally its just an area set aside where you pile all your organic scraps.
Store bought bins. If you live in a subdivision, this may be more friendly choice. A couple of years ago, there was an Earth Day promotion at our county waste resource center and I was lucky enough to pick up three "Earth Machines" for a modest cost. Shop around if you are buying one, because there can be quite a difference in price. I like having three: one being filled, one full and "working" and one ready.
Wood and wire bids. These are fairly economical to construct. I started out with a large one built with scrap wood and chicken wire that lasted for over ten years before it was retired last year. It still functions as the "plant hospital" where things miraculously spring back to life.
Wire Fencing. A ten foot long length of 3 or 4 foot high fence can be securely tied together to form a circular bin. This is cheap, but you want to keep it out of wind.
Trash Can. Keep it really simple and cut the bottom out of a plastic trash can. Once again, keep it out of the wind until its begun to fill up a bit.
Cadillac Bins. If you want to spend some money, you can buy one of the swanky rotating compost bins on a stand. These are very good for making Hot Compost (see below)
Not only are there all these different kinds of bins?
As it happens there are also two ways to compost. Hot or Cold. Which is
better? You pick.
Hot composting produces results quicker, but
involves a lot more work. Its helpful to have a thermometer to check the heat of
the pile. You want to keep the pile between 113 and 158 degrees Fahrenheit. How?
Turn the pile every time the temperature drops below those temperatures. If you
don't have a thermometer, stick a metal rod in the pile ( I use my pry bar). If
its hot, the pile is working. A fringe benefit to this method is that the heat
generally kills a lot of the weed seeds. The only drawback to this method is
that the whole pile must be built at once. So if you have a bonanza of leaves
from your neighbours, that would be the way to go.
But if you're adding your household vegetable scraps to the composter as you
go, then Cold composting would probably be more
suited to your needs. It takes a lot longer, a few months as opposed to the few
weeks that the hot method uses. I use the cold method, because I am always
adding material to the bin. That why I keep the three bins going, so I always
have compost available.
Compost Can be Used For:
Compost tea: I put a gallon of compost in the
bottom of a five gallon pail. Top it up with water and let "steep" for a couple
of days. Use the water to feed plants. Very good for heavy feeders like tomatoes
or squash.
Starting seeds: Mix with potting soil for a high
test mixture for starting seeds.
Quick fix for lawns: Mix compost with grass seed
and spread over bare patches.
Power starting shrubs and trees: Put a gallon of
compost in the hole before planting new trees and shrubs. You'll see the
difference.
Top Dressing: Spread an inch of compost around the
base of trees and shrubs, as far out as the branches extend for a real spring
tonic.
Starting new beds: Mix as much compost as you can
spare into each new bed that you build.
Municipal Compost. If you live in Nova Scotia, the municipalities all have composting facilities for the green cart material. Some of them sell compost, and even give it away now and then when they are promoting composting
Things to Put in your composter:
- Vegetable and fruit scraps
- Sawdust, shavings, wood chips
- Egg shells
- Wood ash
- Leaves, grass clippings, plant matter
- Shredded Paper
- Hay or straw
Please Note: I don't add wood ash to my composter. Instead, I keep it separate and add it directly to the garden. Why? Too much wood ash can alter the ph of the soil. Also, I till the annual garden plants back into the soil rather than add them to the composter. Same thing
